I used to think of Africa as simply that, Africa. One large continent. Its country lines blurred together to form one super land mass. There was no real distinction from east to west, other than the changing landscapes and the migrating masses of wildebeest and zebra. That's why I used to dream of traveling there. It seemed obscure, open, endless. The sun, low on the horizon, could illuminate a path that'd twist and turn and lead to a place anew. And with the horizon always in view, you'd never find yourself adrift. Geologically old. Biologically diverse. The origins of human life. Africa was a place of discovery and sure enough, I was to discover it.
My arrival in Zambia provided me with my first glimpse into African life. The land was flat. The trees and shrubs looked aged, brown and yellow in color, having gone months without rain. The air was dusty and smelled of smoke, exhaust and gasoline. Things seemed to be in disarray. Every building barricaded by cement walls and iron gates and trash floated effortlessly in the breeze. I landed myself in an urban metropolis, a capital city, but there were no high rises, no flashing lights, just advertisements painted on those barricaded walls. Driving through the city streets some short time after I stepped foot on that African soil, I realized I wasn't discovering just Africa. I was discovering a different life, a people, a microcosm whose lines weren't just a blur on a map, but a representation of a unique world.
The more time I spend in Lusaka, the better I understand life. Most city dwellers came from outside the city, or they are part of a generation having been born in Lusaka. Families left their villages and the farms they grew up on for the promise of a brighter life in the country's capital, many trying to support those family members that still survive off their land in the rural communities. The villages are so far removed from any type of civilization. They are primal in nature. Homes made from muds and grasses. Water comes from a stream that is maybe 15 kilometers away. If lucky, a borehole was dug that taps into a water source just outside the village, making water much more accessible. Village life is simple, but it is hard. My house mom grew up in a village a good half days travel from Lusaka. When I look at her hands, I feel like I'm reading the story of her life. They look strong, swollen at the knuckles. They are weathered. Years and years of hard work. Her work began back in the village, at just five years of age. She cooked meals for her family, did the laundry, neither being an easy task without the conveniences of modern technology. Without access to medical care, doctor's visits were rare. Life expectancy, extremely low. The simplicity of a hard life in the village has shaped Sharon into a woman of integrity. She is a lovely lady and each day, we share new stories about our childhood, our families, the places we grew up, the food we eat, the things we love to do. The cultures we come from are so vastly different. It is hard for me to even imagine living the life that she has. Being here, I get to play a part in that life - though in a small way, to me, a very significant way. That part extends beyond my relationship with Sharon. I share music with Gift. Talk to Felix about running, yoga, our physical aspirations. I learn what it's like to be a female Zambian from Hildah and talk to Mukuka about marital traditions, gender norms, our swimming capabilities and our favorite movies.
I initially pictured my discovery of Africa being that of its wild 'things'. The trees, the rocks, the animals. I wanted to discover Africa as I had always imagined discovering it. Though I have been lucky to discover those things; I've marveled at the wondrous Victoria Falls and swam along its edges. I've rafted class Vs through the basaltic canyon of the lower Zambezi. I've hiked through South Africa and wandered around the Cape of Good Hope. I've camped in Botswana, floated down the Chobe River in a canoe, swam with the hippos, stood face to face with wild elephants, giraffes, and lions, and I've stood beneath the shadows of the beautiful and majestic Baobob trees. I've only nearly scratched the surface of discovery and exploration here. What I wasn't expecting though, was to discover the beauty of a people, in this place.